Quick answer
Two-tone means one watch with two metals. On a Cartier that is steel plus yellow gold or rose gold. On a replica the gold part is plating, not solid gold. Plating thickness decides how the finish ages. Ask the seller for the micron count before you buy. Most replica Cartier two-tone watches use 3 to 5 microns of gold. Better builds use 10 microns or more.
Which Cartier models come in two tone
- Santos de Cartier. Steel case with gold bezel screws and gold center links. Genuine sizes are 39.8 mm large and 35.1 mm medium.
- Ballon Bleu de Cartier. Rose gold and steel. Genuine sizes run 33 mm, 36 mm, 40 mm and 42 mm.
- Tank Française. Steel and yellow gold. The small case measures about 25 mm by 30 mm.
Santos replicas sell in the largest numbers. The bezel screws and the visible bracelet screws are the parts buyers check first.
Steel and gold: what changes on a replica
Genuine two-tone Cartier watches use solid 18k gold. Gold alloy density is about 15.6 g/cm3 against 7.9 g/cm3 for 316L steel. A genuine Santos in steel and gold weighs more than a plated copy of the same size. Replica makers use brass or 316L steel under the plating. Weight is the fastest field test.
Plating comes in two forms. Electroplating puts a thin gold layer on the surface. PVD adds a harder coating with a color close to gold. PVD resists scratches better. Electroplating looks warmer but wears at the bracelet edges, the clasp and the crown.
Details to check before you pay
- Plating thickness. Ask for microns. 5 microns is a floor. 10 microns is better.
- Base metal. 316L steel holds plating longer than brass.
- Movement. Tank replicas often use quartz. Santos replicas use automatic movements such as the Miyota 9015 or a Sellita SW200 pattern.
- Crown cabochon. Genuine Cartier uses a blue sapphire or spinel. Copies use glass or a synthetic stone.
- Dial print. The Cartier name sits in the upper half. Letter spacing should be even. Check the roman numerals and the rail track.
- Bracelet screws. On a Santos, screw heads should sit flush with the link.
Care and wear
Plated gold wears at contact points. Keep the watch dry. Water and sweat speed up plating loss. Do not use polish or an ultrasonic cleaner on plated parts. Wipe the case with a soft cloth. Expect 1 to 3 years of daily wear before the plating thins at the clasp and the crown.
Legal note for US buyers
US Customs and Border Protection can seize counterfeit watches at import. Trade in counterfeit goods falls under 18 U.S.C. 2320. Penalties include fines and seizure of the shipment. Check the rules that apply to your address before you order.