A fake Rolex Explorer 2 Steve McQueen is a replica of the reference 1655, the fixed-bezel Explorer II with the orange 24-hour hand that collectors nicknamed after the actor. The genuine watch was produced from 1971 into the mid-1980s, and the nickname came from photographs of McQueen wearing an Explorer II, not from any official Rolex name. A careful replica reproduces the orange arrow hand, the engraved 24-hour steel bezel, and the matte black dial. The gaps show up in the case profile, the dial printing, and the movement inside.
Why It Is Called the Steve McQueen Explorer II
Rolex launched the Explorer II in 1971 as a tool for cavers and speleologists who lost track of day and night underground. The 24-hour hand and the fixed 24-hour bezel let the wearer read whether it was daytime or nighttime without guessing.
The McQueen label arrived later. Photos of the actor wearing an Explorer II circulated among collectors, the name stuck, and it now travels with the reference. Rolex has never used it. In Italy the same watch is known as the Freccione, which refers to the arrow-shaped hand, and English-speaking collectors often call it the Orange Hand.
What Defines the Reference 1655
- Case: stainless steel, roughly 40 mm across, with drilled lugs on early examples and a domed acrylic crystal without a date magnifier.
- Bezel: fixed steel with an engraved 24-hour scale, no rotation.
- Hands: an orange 24-hour hand with an arrow tip that moves with the regular hour hand, plus straight hour and minute hands.
- Dial: matte black with painted or applied markers depending on the era, and a date window at 3 o'clock.
- Movement: Rolex calibre 1575, a slow-beat automatic without quick-set date.
The 24-hour hand does not set independently on the original, so it tracks the main hour hand. That detail trips up plenty of replicas.
Details That Separate a Careful Replica From a Cheap One
Most buyers judge a fake Rolex Explorer 2 Steve McQueen at arm's length, so the visual cues matter most.
- Hand color: the orange should sit between bright orange and red-orange, not neon. Cheap versions use a flat plastic tone.
- Bezel engraving: the 24-hour numerals should be crisp and filled, with even spacing and no blur at the edges.
- Dial text: check the spacing of the Explorer II line and the coronet shape. Crooked printing is the fastest giveaway.
- Crystal: the 1655 has no cyclops. A replica with a magnifier is copying the wrong watch.
- Case profile: lugs should taper and the case sides should stay slim. Many replicas are too thick.
- Date window: position and cut should line up with the 3 o'clock marker, with a flat date wheel font.
Movement Options in the Replica Market
Because the original 1575 is scarce and expensive, replicas use other automatic movements. Two show up most often:
- Asian 2836 based GMT: robust, easy to service, and widely available. The 24-hour hand usually works as a 24-hour indicator, matching the original behavior.
- Clone-style GMT movements: smoother sweep and better finishing, but fewer watchmakers will service them.
Ask which movement is fitted before buying. A watch that keeps time within about ten seconds a day is doing fine for this price bracket.
Dial Variants Worth Knowing
Vintage 1655 dials changed over the production run, and collectors label them Mark I through Mark V. Differences include the coronet shape, the depth of the printing, and the shade of the orange hand. A replica usually copies one specific variant, so pick a reference photo of that exact dial and compare side by side. If the seller shows a Mark III dial on the listing and delivers a generic one, the watch is not the version you ordered.
What a Replica Cannot Replicate
Case aging is the honest limit. Genuine 1655 cases have faded bezel inserts, stretched bracelets, and patina on the hands that took decades to form. Replicas use artificial aging that looks uniform under a loupe. The bracelet feel also differs, since stamped end links and hollow center links are hard to copy at low cost. Treat the watch as a replica and represent it that way.
Wearing and Care Tips
- Keep the crown screwed down, since the 1655 layout relies on a twin-lock crown.
- Rinse the case with fresh water after saltwater or heavy sweat exposure.
- Avoid setting the date between 9 p.m. and 3 a.m. on any automatic with a date wheel.
- Have the gaskets checked yearly if you swim with it.
- Store it away from magnets, which pull a slow-beat movement off rate.
FAQ
Is the Steve McQueen name official?
No. It is collector shorthand. Rolex lists the model simply as the Explorer II.
Does the replica 24-hour hand set independently?
On a faithful copy it should not. It moves with the hour hand, matching the original calibre 1575 behavior.
Which size should I expect?
About 40 mm across the case with a 20 mm lug width, which wears close to a Submariner on the wrist.