Short answer: a fake IW328062 is a copy of the IWC Pilot's Watch reference IW328062, a stainless steel pilot's watch with a matte dial, white luminous numerals, a date window, and an automatic movement. Our top pick for most buyers is a high-grade automatic replica with a correctly proportioned case and a clone or Swiss automatic movement, because the criteria that matter most are case dimensions and profile, dial printing and index alignment, crystal and anti-reflective coating, movement type and winding feel, and caseback engraving. Those five points decide whether a copy wears like the real watch or feels like a toy.

What the reference actually is

IW328062 sits inside IWC's IW3280 series of Pilot's Watch Automatic models. These watches use stainless steel cases measuring roughly 40 mm across, sapphire crystals, screw-down crowns, and automatic movements with a power reserve measured in days rather than hours. IWC has released several close variations in this family with different dial colors, strap options, and case finishes, so pull the spec sheet for the exact reference number before you judge a specific watch. A copy that gets the family look right but the specific reference wrong is still a copy, and that distinction shows up fastest in the date position, the dial text, and the case thickness.

Criterion 1: Case size, lug geometry, and finishing

Measure the case across the bezel, not across the crown guards. A replica that runs a millimeter or two wide will sit differently and will not accept genuine-spec straps cleanly. Check lug width, lug curve, and how the case sides transition into the lugs. Brushed surfaces should run in one direction, and polished bevels should be crisp rather than rounded over.

Pros of checking this first

  • Case size is the easiest spec to verify with calipers, so it filters out most low-grade copies in seconds.
  • Correct lugs mean standard straps and bracelets fit without filing or bending.
  • Proper brushing and bevels carry most of the visual weight on a pilot's watch.

Cons of skipping it

  • An oversized case reads as a copy from across a table.
  • Bad lug geometry causes strap gaps and rattles at the spring bars.
  • Case thickness is hard to fake, and a thick case ruins the flat profile on the wrist.

Criterion 2: Dial printing, indices, and the date window

Look at the dial under raking light. The printing should be sharp with clean edges on every letter and numeral. Applied indices should sit flat and level, with lume that fills the frame evenly instead of pooling at one end. The date window should be centered in the cutout, and the date wheel should sit close to the dial rather than sunk behind it. Misaligned indices are the single most common flaw on mid-tier replicas.

Pros of a clean dial

  • Sharp printing and level indices make the watch look right at arm's length and in photos.
  • Even lume application means consistent glow and a tidy daytime look.
  • A properly seated date wheel keeps the window from looking deep and hollow.

Cons of a sloppy dial

  • Crooked markers are visible in every wrist shot.
  • Blurry or doubled text is the fastest tell under a loupe.
  • Uneven lume looks patchy in low light, which is when a pilot's watch should perform.

Criterion 3: Crystal, anti-reflective coating, and crown

Genuine pilot's watches rely on sapphire with anti-reflective treatment on the inside, which keeps the dial readable without a blue haze. A replica with coating on the outside will scratch and smudge within weeks. The crown should thread smoothly, seat flush with the case, and turn with light resistance when you wind it. Gritty threading is a sign of soft metal and loose tolerances.

Pros of the right crystal and crown

  • Correct coating keeps reflections down and the dial legible in daylight.
  • A smooth screw-down crown protects the movement from moisture and dust.
  • Flush crown seating keeps the case profile slim on the wrist.

Cons of the wrong ones

  • External coating wears into a ring of scratches that cannot be polished out.
  • Cross-threaded crowns strip and leave the case open to water.
  • Mineral glass chips at the edges and shows every knock.

Criterion 4: Movement, winding feel, and caseback engraving

Ask which movement is inside and whether it is quartz, an entry automatic, or a clone automatic built to mirror the original layout. Set the time and date a few times; the crown should engage immediately with no dead play, and the date should flip cleanly near midnight rather than drifting for hours. Caseback engraving should be crisp with consistent depth, and the reference number should match the dial and the papers if any are included.

Pros of a real automatic

  • A sweeping seconds hand and correct date change behave like the genuine watch.
  • Better movements hold time within a few seconds a day when regulated.
  • A well-engraved caseback survives close inspection.

Cons of a cheap movement

  • Quartz ticking and a once-per-second step are instant giveaways.
  • Loose date changes and crown play point to low-grade internals.
  • Shallow laser engraving fades and looks soft compared to stamped or etched work.

Option 1: Quartz fake

The cheapest tier, usually built to a generic case with a battery movement.

Pros

  • Low initial cost and no winding needed.
  • Easy to keep running as a beater.

Cons

  • Ticking seconds hand and no rotor sound.
  • Case proportions are usually off, and the dial print is often rough.

Best for: nobody who cares how the watch looks next to the real thing. Skip it if you plan to wear the watch in public.

Option 2: Entry automatic replica

A basic automatic movement in a case that gets the general shape right.

Pros

  • Sweeping seconds hand and a reasonable wrist presence.
  • Often available with a leather strap that suits the pilot look.

Cons

  • Dial alignment, lume, and crystal coating vary between batches.
  • Movements are rarely regulated, so timekeeping drifts.

Best for: casual wear where nobody will examine the dial closely.

Option 3: High-grade automatic replica (top pick)

The top tier focuses on the five criteria above: measured case size, sharp dial printing, sapphire with internal coating, and a clone automatic movement with a working date change.

Pros

  • Weight, crown action, and case profile match the reference closely.
  • Dial print, index alignment, and lume are handled with care.
  • Takes standard straps and holds time well enough for daily wear.

Cons

  • Costs more than the lower tiers and takes longer to source.
  • Still a replica, so it will not pass a trained watchmaker's inspection or a service center.

Best for: buyers who want the pilot's watch look on the wrist with correct proportions and a movement that behaves properly.

Buying checklist

  1. Confirm the exact reference specs, including case diameter, thickness, and lug width, before you compare any watch.
  2. Ask for caliper measurements and clear photos of the dial under direct light.
  3. Ask which movement is fitted and whether it has been regulated.
  4. Request a video showing the seconds hand sweep and the date flipping.
  5. Check the crown threads and the caseback engraving depth on arrival.
  6. Understand that importing counterfeit goods carrying protected trademarks is prohibited in the United States and shipments can be seized.

Bottom line

A fake IW328062 is only worth owning if the case measures right, the dial is printed cleanly, the crystal is sapphire with internal coating, and the movement is a genuine automatic with a crisp date change. Judge those four things before anything else, and you will avoid the copies that fall apart in a month.